A reciprocating saw — sometimes called a recip saw, sabre saw, or by the Milwaukee brand name ‘Sawzall’ — is the brute-force demolition tool of the power tool world. Where other saws are about precision, a recip saw is about getting through material fast, in awkward places, and without caring much about the finish. If you need to tear something apart, this is the tool.
What a Reciprocating Saw Does Best
- Demolition — cutting through stud walls, removing old window frames, taking out kitchen units, dismantling timber structures
- Cutting pipes — copper, plastic, and even cast iron. Essential for plumbing modifications
- Pruning trees — faster and easier than a handsaw for large branches. Many arborists use them
- Cutting nails and screws — the only saw that happily cuts through embedded nails while cutting the wood around them
- Cutting in tight spaces — the blade reaches into spaces where no circular saw or handsaw can fit
- Metal cutting — with the right blade, it cuts steel brackets, rebar, bolts, and thin sheet metal
How It Works
A reciprocating saw drives a blade rapidly back and forth in a straight line — like a motorised handsaw. Most models also have orbital action, which swings the blade slightly up on the forward stroke for more aggressive cutting. The shoe (baseplate) presses against the workpiece to control the cut depth and prevent the saw from jumping. The Family Handyman recip saw guide covers technique in detail.
Blade Guide
| Blade Type | TPI | Material | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Wood (fast cut) | 5–8 | HCS | Timber, stud walls, demolition wood |
| Wood + nails | 8–10 | Bi-metal | Demolition where nails are embedded in wood |
| Metal | 14–24 | Bi-metal | Pipes, brackets, bolts, thin steel |
| Cast iron | 8–14 | Carbide-tipped | Cast iron pipes, hardened steel |
| Pruning | 5–7 | HCS (aggressive tooth design) | Green wood, branches, roots |
| Masonry | Grit edge | Carbide grit | Brick, block, tile (limited use) |
The most versatile blade for general DIY work is a bi-metal wood + nails blade (8–10 TPI). It handles timber, embedded nails, screws, and most demolition tasks. Keep a set of metal-cutting blades on hand for pipes and brackets.
Corded vs Cordless
| Feature | Corded | Cordless (18V/20V) |
|---|---|---|
| Power | Consistently high | Good (slightly less sustained) |
| Weight | Heavier (motor + cord) | Moderate (battery adds weight) |
| Portability | Limited by cord | Excellent — go anywhere |
| Runtime | Unlimited | 30–60 mins per battery (heavy use) |
| Price | £50–£120 | £80–£200 (body only) |
| Best for | Extended demolition, workshop use | Site work, outdoors, pruning |
For occasional DIY use, cordless is the better choice — the freedom to work without a cord is particularly valuable for demolition and outdoor pruning. If you already have an 18V battery platform, buy the body-only version. For heavy, sustained demolition work, a corded model offers more consistent power. Screwfix’s range covers both options.
How to Use a Reciprocating Saw Safely
Basic Technique
- Choose the right blade for the material. Wrong blade = slow cutting, overheating, and broken blades
- Press the shoe firmly against the workpiece — the shoe controls vibration and prevents the saw from jumping. Without firm shoe contact, the saw kicks violently
- Start the blade before contacting the material — let it reach speed first
- Let the blade do the work — guide it, don’t force it. Pushing too hard bends the blade and slows the cut
- Use orbital action for wood — it cuts much faster. Switch off orbital for metal — it needs a straight-line cut
- Support the cut-off piece — unsupported pieces drop and can bind the blade
Safety
- Wear safety glasses — debris flies everywhere during demolition
- Wear hearing protection — recip saws are loud, especially in enclosed spaces
- Check for electrical cables and plumbing before cutting into walls or floors. Use a cable detector
- Be aware of kickback — if the blade binds, the saw can kick violently. Keep a firm two-handed grip
- Disconnect power when changing blades
When to Use Other Saws Instead
A recip saw is not a precision tool. If you need clean, straight cuts, use a circular saw, track saw, or mitre saw. If you need curved cuts, use a jigsaw. The recip saw’s domain is rough cutting where speed and access matter more than finish quality. Think of it as the tool you reach for when you’re taking things apart, not putting them together.
