A plunge saw (track saw) is only as good as the blade you put in it. The wrong blade in the wrong material gives you chips, burn marks, rough edges, and a finish that needs hours of sanding to rescue. The right blade gives you cuts so clean they look like they came off a table saw. This guide covers which blade to use for every common material.
Blade Anatomy: What the Numbers Mean
Tooth Count
More teeth = smoother, slower cut. Fewer teeth = faster, rougher cut. This is the single most important spec:
| Tooth Count (160mm blade) | Cut Quality | Cut Speed | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| 24–36 teeth | Rough | Fast | Framing, rough cutting softwood |
| 40–48 teeth | Good | Moderate | General-purpose crosscuts in solid wood |
| 52–56 teeth | Very good | Moderate-slow | Clean crosscuts in hardwood, clean rip cuts |
| 60–64 teeth | Excellent | Slow | Sheet materials, melamine, veneered boards |
Kerf
The kerf is the width of the cut the blade makes. Thin-kerf blades (around 1.8mm) waste less material, require less power, and produce less resistance. Standard kerf blades (2.2–2.6mm) are more rigid and may track straighter in thicker material. Most plunge saw blades are thin-kerf by design — the guide rail provides the tracking accuracy, so rigidity matters less than on a table saw.
Hook Angle
The hook angle describes whether the teeth lean forward (positive hook) or backward (negative hook):
- Positive hook (5–20°) — the blade is aggressive, pulls itself into the material. Faster cutting but more prone to tear-out. Common on general-purpose wood blades
- Negative hook (-5° to -2°) — the blade doesn’t self-feed. Gives more control and a cleaner cut, especially on sheet materials. Standard on fine-finish and melamine blades
Which Blade for Which Material
| Material | Recommended Blade | Tooth Count (160mm) | Hook Angle | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Softwood (pine, spruce) | General-purpose wood | 40–48T | Positive | Fast, clean enough for most work |
| Hardwood (oak, ash, walnut) | Fine crosscut | 52–60T | Low positive/neutral | Slower feed rate for clean finish |
| Plywood | Fine crosscut or sheet goods | 56–64T | Negative | High tooth count prevents veneer tear-out |
| MDF | General-purpose or fine | 48–56T | Positive or neutral | MDF cuts cleanly regardless — tough on blades though |
| Melamine/laminated board | Melamine/laminate specific | 60–64T | Negative | Negative hook prevents chipping the laminate face |
| Solid surface (Corian) | Multi-material or fine | 56–64T | Negative | Slow feed rate, let the blade do the work |
| Aluminium | Aluminium-specific or multi-material | 56–64T | Negative | Use cutting lubricant. Non-ferrous metals only |
| Cement board/Hardie board | Fibre cement specific | PCD or diamond-tipped | Negative | Standard carbide blades dull instantly |
Popular Blade Brands
The blade market has a few standout brands:
- Festool — the gold standard if you use a Festool saw. Expensive but exceptional quality and lifespan. Their colour-coded system makes selection easy
- Freud — excellent mid-to-high range blades with proprietary TiCo carbide. Outstanding edge retention
- DeWalt — great value, widely available. Their Extreme series works well in most plunge saws
- Makita Efficut — designed for cordless saws. Thin kerf and efficient tooth design reduce battery drain
- Bosch — solid mid-range options. Their Expert range is particularly good for sheet materials
Blade diameter matters — check your saw’s specification. Most track saws use 160mm blades, but some models use 165mm, 190mm, or even 210mm blades. A wrong-diameter blade won’t fit or will cut at the wrong depth. See our track saw buying guide and our circular saw guide for more on saw selection. The Axminster saw blade range has comprehensive compatibility information.
When to Replace a Blade
Replace your blade when:
- The cut quality deteriorates — more tear-out, rougher edges, burn marks on wood
- You’re pushing harder than usual — a sharp blade pulls itself through the material with minimal force
- Burn marks appear on the wood — this means the blade is dull and generating friction heat rather than cutting
- Teeth are visibly chipped or missing
- The blade wobbles — this usually means the blade body is warped from overheating
Extending Blade Life
- Use the right blade for the material — the single biggest factor in blade life. A wood blade in aluminium will dull in one cut
- Feed at the right speed — too fast overloads the teeth, too slow causes rubbing and heat. Listen to the motor — a smooth, consistent sound means correct feed speed
- Keep blades clean — resin build-up from softwoods reduces cutting efficiency. Clean with a blade cleaning solution or oven cleaner (spray, leave, rinse)
- Store blades properly — don’t stack them loose where teeth contact each other. Use blade cases or hang them individually
