A cordless drill is the single most useful power tool you can own. It drives screws, drills holes, stirs paint, and — with the right attachments — does about a dozen other jobs you never expected. But walking into a tool shop as a beginner is overwhelming. There are dozens of models, confusing spec sheets, and price tags ranging from £30 to £300+. How do you know which one to buy?
This guide cuts through the noise. I’ll explain what the specs actually mean in plain English, which type of drill you need, and — crucially — which features are worth paying for and which are marketing fluff. Then I’ll recommend specific drills for different budgets.
Why Your First Drill Matters More Than You Think
A bad first drill puts you off DIY. A drill that won’t drive a screw into hardwood, a battery that dies after 20 minutes, a chuck that wobbles — these things make simple jobs feel impossible and make you think you’re doing something wrong. You’re not. The tool is letting you down.
Conversely, a decent first drill makes everything feel achievable. Flat-pack furniture goes together in half the time. Hanging shelves becomes straightforward. Suddenly you’re thinking about bigger projects because the basic tool actually works properly.
You don’t need to spend a fortune, but buying the absolute cheapest drill is a false economy. The sweet spot for a beginner cordless drill is £60-120 — enough to get genuinely good quality without paying for professional features you’ll never use.
Understanding Drill Specs (Without the Jargon)
Voltage — How Much Power Do You Need?
Voltage is essentially the power potential of the battery. Higher voltage generally means more power — but the relationship isn’t as straightforward as “bigger number = better.”
| Voltage | Typical Use | Good For |
|---|---|---|
| 10.8V / 12V | Light duty | Flat-pack assembly, light drilling in softwood and plasterboard. Compact and lightweight. |
| 18V / 20V Max | General purpose | The sweet spot for most DIYers. Drives screws into hardwood, drills through masonry (with hammer action), handles 90% of home tasks. |
| 36V / 40V Max | Heavy duty | Professional and demanding tasks. Overkill for home use unless you’re doing heavy construction work. |
Note on “20V Max”: Some brands (especially American ones) label their 18V tools as “20V Max.” It’s the same thing — 20V is the peak voltage of a fully charged battery, 18V is the nominal (average working) voltage. Don’t be confused into thinking 20V Max is more powerful than 18V. It isn’t.
My recommendation: 18V. It’s the most common platform size, gives you plenty of power for home DIY, and — importantly — gives you access to the widest range of tools if you later want to add a circular saw, jigsaw, or sander on the same battery platform.
Brushed vs Brushless — Is It Worth Paying More?
Brushed motors use physical carbon brushes to transfer electricity to the spinning rotor. Brushless motors use electronic circuitry instead. The practical differences:
- Efficiency: Brushless motors waste less energy as heat, so you get more runtime from the same battery — typically 25-50% more.
- Power: Brushless motors deliver more torque for the same size, so the drill feels more capable.
- Durability: No brushes to wear out means longer motor life.
- Price: Brushless drills typically cost £20-40 more than brushed equivalents.
Is it worth it? For a drill you’ll use regularly (weekly or more), yes — the extra battery life and power are noticeable. For occasional use (once a month or less), a brushed motor is absolutely fine and saves you money. Neither will wear out from normal home use within a reasonable timeframe.
Chuck Size — 10mm vs 13mm
The chuck is the clamp that holds the drill bit. Chuck size determines the maximum shank diameter you can fit.
- 10mm chuck: Handles most standard drill bits and driver bits. Found on compact and 12V models.
- 13mm chuck: Accepts larger drill bits (useful for bigger masonry bits and spade bits). Standard on most 18V drills.
For a general-purpose drill, get a 13mm chuck. The size and weight difference is minimal, and you’ll appreciate the extra capacity when you need a bigger bit.
Torque Settings Explained Simply
That numbered dial on the collar of the drill (usually 1-20 or 1-25) controls the clutch. When the drill hits the resistance set by the number, the clutch slips and the chuck stops turning. This prevents you from:
- Over-driving screws (snapping the head off or sinking them too deep)
- Stripping screw holes
- Wrenching your wrist when a drill bit catches
Low numbers (1-5): For delicate work — small screws in softwood, hinge screws, electronics enclosures.
Mid numbers (8-15): For general screwing — decking screws, cabinet assembly, shelf brackets.
High numbers (16-20+): For heavy driving — coach bolts, large lag screws, dense hardwood.
Drill symbol ( ): Clutch fully disengaged. Maximum torque with no slip. Use this for drilling holes, not for driving screws.
Having more torque settings isn’t necessarily better — 15 settings is plenty. What matters is that the clutch actually works consistently, which is where cheap drills often fail.
Drill/Driver vs Hammer Drill vs Impact Driver — Which One?
This is the question that confuses most beginners. Here’s the simple version:
| Tool | What It Does | Buy If… |
|---|---|---|
| Drill/Driver | Drills holes and drives screws. The all-rounder. | You want one tool for general home tasks. This is what most beginners need. |
| Hammer Drill (combi drill) | Everything a drill/driver does, plus a hammer action for drilling into masonry (brick, concrete, stone). | You’ll be drilling into brick or concrete walls — very common in UK homes. Most 18V models include hammer action. |
| Impact Driver | Drives screws with rotational impacts — much more force than a drill/driver, but can’t drill holes. | You drive lots of screws (decking, framing) or work with large fasteners. It’s a second tool, not a first. |
My recommendation for UK homes: an 18V combi drill (hammer drill). UK walls are predominantly masonry — brick, block, or stone. You will need to drill into them at some point (hanging shelves, curtain poles, TV brackets). A combi drill handles this plus all your general drilling and driving. It’s the most versatile single tool for a UK homeowner.
Battery Platform Lock-In (The Thing Nobody Warns You About)
This is genuinely the most important long-term consideration when buying your first cordless drill, and most buying guides barely mention it.
When you buy a cordless drill, you’re not just buying a drill — you’re choosing a battery platform. Makita, DeWalt, Bosch Professional, Milwaukee — each brand uses its own proprietary battery system. Once you own two batteries and a charger from one brand, buying tools from a different brand means buying entirely new batteries and chargers.
Batteries are the most expensive component. A single 18V 5.0Ah battery costs £50-80. A charger is another £30-50. So switching brands after you’ve accumulated batteries is genuinely expensive.
What this means for your first drill purchase:
- Look beyond just the drill. Check what other tools are available on the same battery platform — circular saws, jigsaws, sanders, impact drivers, torches, radios.
- The major brands (Makita, DeWalt, Bosch Professional, Milwaukee) all have extensive 18V ranges. You won’t go wrong with any of them.
- Budget brands (Ryobi, Einhell) have growing ranges and cost significantly less. Ryobi’s ONE+ 18V platform has over 200 tools.
- Avoid no-name brands with tiny product ranges — you’ll be stuck with just the drill.
My Top 3 Picks for Beginners
Best Overall
Look for an 18V brushless combi drill kit (drill + 2 batteries + charger + case) from one of the major brands. Budget £100-140. At this price point, you’re getting a genuinely capable tool with enough battery capacity for a full day of DIY, a brushless motor that’ll last years, and entry into a battery platform with room to grow.
Features to look for at this price:
- Brushless motor
- 13mm keyless chuck
- Two-speed gearbox
- At least 2.0Ah batteries (4.0Ah or 5.0Ah if budget allows)
- LED work light
- Carry case
Best Budget Option
If £100+ feels like a lot for your first drill, you can get a perfectly capable 18V brushed combi drill kit for £50-80. You’ll sacrifice brushless efficiency and possibly some torque, but for occasional home use — flat-pack furniture, hanging pictures, drilling the odd wall plug — it’ll do the job.
At this price, prioritise: two batteries (one on charge while you use the other), at least 1.5Ah capacity, and a 13mm chuck. The brand matters here — stick with recognisable names that have replacement batteries available in five years.
Best If You Want to Grow Into the Platform
If you know you’ll be buying more power tools in the coming years (circular saw, jigsaw, sander, etc.), invest in a drill from a platform you want to commit to. Buy the drill as a “body only” (no batteries) for £50-80, then buy batteries and a charger separately. This way, when you add more tools, you buy body-only each time and share the batteries across all of them.
This approach costs slightly more upfront but saves significantly over time. Three tools with shared batteries cost far less than three tools each with their own batteries.
Essential Accessories to Buy With Your First Drill
The drill itself is half the equation. You’ll also need:
- Drill bit set — a mixed set with HSS bits (for metal and wood), masonry bits (for brick and concrete), and wood bits (brad point). A 30-50 piece set covers most needs and costs £15-25.
- Driver bit set — Phillips, Pozi, Torx, slotted, and hex. A set of 30+ bits in a case costs £10-15 and means you always have the right bit for the screw you’re facing.
- Magnetic bit holder — extends the reach of your driver bits and holds them securely. Costs about £3 and is invaluable for driving screws in tight spaces.
- Wall plugs — a mixed box of Fischer or Rawl plugs (6mm and 8mm) means you’re always ready to fix something to a wall. £5-8 for a box of 100+.
One thing to avoid: massive “300-piece” accessory sets that come in impressive-looking cases. They’re full of bits you’ll never use, and the quality of the bits that matter (masonry, metal) is usually poor. A smaller set of quality bits will last longer and perform better than a huge set of cheap ones.
Your best cordless drill for beginners isn’t necessarily the most powerful or the most expensive — it’s the one that suits your typical tasks, fits your budget, and belongs to a battery platform you’ll be happy with for years. Get that right, and every DIY job becomes a bit easier.
