You need to drill into masonry, and the question is: do you need a standard hammer drill or should you step up to an SDS? It’s a question I asked myself after struggling through three projects with a hammer drill that was clearly out of its depth — and the answer saved me hours of frustration.
Both tools drill into brick, concrete, and stone. But they do it in fundamentally different ways, and understanding that difference will tell you exactly which one you need. Spoiler: most homeowners eventually end up owning both, because they solve different problems.
How Each One Works (The Key Difference)
The core difference between a hammer drill and an SDS drill is the hammering mechanism. Both combine rotation with a percussive (hammering) action to break through masonry, but the way they generate that impact is completely different — and that matters enormously for performance.
A standard hammer drill uses a mechanical cam mechanism. Two ribbed metal discs spin against each other, creating a rapid vibrating action. The drill bit chatters back and forth in tiny movements while rotating. It works, but the impact energy is relatively low and depends heavily on how hard you push.
An SDS drill (SDS stands for Steck-Dreh-Sitz, or Slotted Drive System) uses a pneumatic piston mechanism — essentially a small air-powered hammer inside the tool. This generates significantly more impact force per blow, independent of how hard you push. The bit floats in the chuck and is driven forward by the piston, delivering genuine hammer blows rather than vibration.
The practical difference: An SDS drill into concrete feels like the bit is punching its way through. A hammer drill feels like you’re forcing the bit through with pressure and patience. In soft brick, you might not notice much difference. In hard concrete, the difference is night and day.
Standard Hammer Drill
What It’s Good For
A standard hammer drill (also called a combi drill when it has hammer, drill, and screwdriver modes) is the most versatile power tool you can own. In normal mode, it’s a drill and a screwdriver. Switch on the hammer function and it handles light masonry work.
A hammer drill excels at:
- Drilling into standard house brick (the red/orange type) — up to about 10mm diameter holes with ease
- Drilling into mortar joints — often easier than drilling the brick itself
- Drilling into lightweight blocks (breeze blocks, aerated blocks) — these are soft and a hammer drill goes through them like butter
- General-purpose drilling into wood, metal, and plastic (with hammer mode off)
- Driving screws — from decking to flat-pack furniture
For a homeowner putting up shelves, fitting curtain poles, mounting TV brackets on standard brick walls, and doing general DIY, a hammer drill handles the vast majority of jobs you’ll encounter.
Limitations
The hammer drill hits its limits when you move beyond soft masonry:
- Hard concrete (especially modern high-strength concrete) — the drill will eventually get through, but it takes ages, wears out bits rapidly, and your arms will ache from pushing.
- Engineering brick — the dense, dark-coloured bricks used in some foundations and older buildings. These are brutally hard and a hammer drill struggles significantly with anything beyond a 6mm hole.
- Large diameter holes in any masonry — once you get above about 10-12mm diameter in brick, a hammer drill slows down noticeably. At 16mm, it’s painful.
- Concrete lintels — the reinforced concrete beams above windows and doors. These are extremely hard and often contain steel rebar that a hammer drill can’t handle.
- Stone — natural stone walls (common in older UK houses) are incredibly hard. A hammer drill barely scratches the surface.
SDS Drill
What It’s Good For
An SDS drill is a specialist masonry tool. It does one thing brilliantly: drill holes in hard materials. The pneumatic hammer mechanism generates 2-5 times more impact energy than a standard hammer drill, and it maintains that force regardless of how hard you push.
An SDS drill excels at:
- Drilling into hard concrete — quickly and cleanly, even in modern high-strength mixes
- Drilling into engineering brick — achievable rather than agonising
- Large diameter holes (12mm, 16mm, 20mm+) in any masonry
- Drilling through concrete lintels — including through steel rebar with the right bit
- Drilling into natural stone — the only tool that handles it without complaint
- Chasing out channels for cables and pipes (in hammer-only/chisel mode with appropriate attachment)
- Light demolition — removing tiles, breaking out small areas of render or concrete
SDS-Plus vs SDS-Max
There are two main SDS systems, and the distinction matters:
| Feature | SDS-Plus | SDS-Max |
|---|---|---|
| Shank diameter | 10mm | 18mm |
| Typical drill bit range | 4mm – 30mm | 12mm – 52mm+ |
| Impact energy | 1.5 – 5 joules | 5 – 20+ joules |
| Weight | 2.5 – 4.5 kg | 5 – 12 kg |
| Best for | Home DIY, trades, general masonry | Heavy construction, demolition |
| Price range | £60 – £250 | £200 – £600+ |
For home DIY, you want SDS-Plus. SDS-Max is a professional construction tool — it’s heavy, expensive, and way more machine than any homeowner needs. An SDS-Plus drill handles everything a domestic user will encounter, from fixing to concrete to chasing cable routes through walls.
Performance Comparison — Drilling into Brick, Concrete, and Stone
To put real numbers on the difference, here’s what you can expect when drilling common hole sizes in different materials:
| Material | Hole Size | Hammer Drill Time | SDS-Plus Time | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Standard house brick | 6mm × 50mm deep | 5-10 seconds | 2-3 seconds | Both handle this easily |
| Standard house brick | 10mm × 80mm deep | 15-30 seconds | 5-8 seconds | Hammer drill still fine |
| Hard concrete | 6mm × 50mm deep | 30-60 seconds | 5-10 seconds | SDS advantage becomes obvious |
| Hard concrete | 10mm × 80mm deep | 2-5 minutes | 15-30 seconds | Hammer drill struggles noticeably |
| Hard concrete | 16mm × 100mm deep | 10+ minutes (if it manages) | 30-60 seconds | SDS territory — don’t bother with a hammer drill |
| Engineering brick | 8mm × 60mm deep | 2-5 minutes | 10-20 seconds | Night and day difference |
| Natural stone | 8mm × 60mm deep | Very difficult | 15-30 seconds | Hammer drill may not penetrate at all |
The table tells the story clearly: for standard brick with small holes, either tool works. For anything harder or larger, the SDS drill is in a completely different league.
When a Hammer Drill Is Enough
Don’t rush out and buy an SDS if you don’t need one. A good hammer drill handles the majority of home DIY tasks perfectly well:
- Putting up shelves, curtain poles, and TV brackets on standard brick or block walls
- Drilling for wall plugs (typically 6-8mm holes in brick) — this is 90% of domestic masonry drilling
- Fitting bathroom accessories, towel rails, mirrors
- Mounting anything on plasterboard (no hammer action needed — just drill mode)
- All wood and metalwork
- Driving screws
If your house is standard brick construction (built after about 1920, standard internal block walls, concrete floors on the ground floor), a hammer drill will handle most jobs you throw at it. The key word is “most” — you’ll hit limits on concrete lintels and floor slabs, but those are occasional jobs.
When You Need an SDS
These are the situations where an SDS drill either saves you enormous time or is genuinely the only tool that works:
- Drilling into concrete floors — for fixing skirting boards, securing door thresholds, or running cables. Concrete floors are significantly harder than brick walls.
- Drilling into concrete lintels — the beams above windows and doors. If you’re fitting blinds or curtain poles and the fixings hit the lintel, an SDS is the only sensible option.
- Fixing to external walls — external brick is often harder than internal, especially engineering brick below the damp course.
- Stone walls — if you live in an older house with stone walls (common in northern England, Scotland, Wales, and the Cotswolds), an SDS is essential.
- Chasing cable or pipe routes — an SDS with a chisel attachment can chase channels in masonry for rewiring or plumbing.
- Any project involving multiple holes in concrete — fitting a gate, anchoring a shed base, installing fence posts in concrete.
- Larger fixings — anything above 10mm diameter in masonry, such as coach bolts or chemical anchors for heavy loads.
Can You Use an SDS for Regular Drilling?
This is a common question, and the answer is: sort of, but it’s not ideal.
Most SDS drills have a “drill only” mode that disengages the hammer function. In theory, you can use it for drilling wood and metal. In practice, SDS drills are heavier, bulkier, and less precise than a standard drill. The SDS chuck also doesn’t accept standard drill bits — you need SDS-shank bits or a keyless chuck adaptor.
A keyless chuck adaptor lets you use standard drill bits in an SDS, but it adds length, introduces wobble, and is a compromised solution. It works for rough work (pilot holes in timber for masonry bolts, for example) but you wouldn’t want to drill a clean hole in furniture with it.
The practical answer: Own both. A cordless combi drill for 80% of your work (wood, metal, screws, light masonry) and an SDS for the 20% that involves serious masonry. They’re different tools for different jobs — trying to make one do everything results in compromise both ways.
My Recommendations
Best Hammer Drill for Homeowners
For most homeowners, a cordless 18V combi drill is the right choice. You want:
- 18V battery platform — this is the sweet spot for power and battery life. 12V is too weak for masonry; 36V is heavier and more expensive than necessary.
- At least 2.0Ah batteries — ideally 4.0Ah or 5.0Ah for longer run time. Buy a model with two batteries so one charges while you use the other.
- Brushless motor — more efficient, more powerful, and longer-lasting than brushed motors. Worth the modest premium.
- 13mm keyless chuck — accepts the full range of drill bits without needing a key.
- Variable speed and torque settings — essential for switching between drilling and screwdriving.
The major brands (Makita, DeWalt, Milwaukee, Bosch Professional) all produce excellent combi drills. If you’re already invested in a battery platform for other tools, stay within that ecosystem — battery compatibility is the biggest practical factor.
Best SDS Drill for DIYers
For home DIY, you have a choice between corded and cordless SDS:
Corded SDS (£60-150): More power for the money, no battery to die mid-job, and lighter than cordless equivalents. The trade-off is the trailing cable. For most homeowners, a corded SDS makes perfect sense — you’ll use it occasionally for specific jobs, and unlimited power outweighs the inconvenience of a cable.
Cordless SDS (£150-300+ with batteries): Convenient if you’re working in locations without power (outside, up ladders, in lofts). Battery SDS drills have improved enormously and 18V models handle most domestic tasks. However, they’re more expensive and heavier than corded alternatives.
Key specs to look for:
- SDS-Plus chuck — don’t accidentally buy SDS-Max (it’s overkill for home use)
- 2.0+ joules impact energy — enough for concrete and engineering brick
- Three-mode operation — drill only, hammer drill, and hammer only (chisel mode)
- Variable speed — important for starting holes accurately
- A good set of SDS masonry bits — 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, and 12mm cover most domestic fixings
The bottom line: A hammer drill is the versatile everyday tool. An SDS drill is the specialist for hard masonry. Most serious DIYers end up owning both, and once you’ve felt the difference an SDS makes in concrete, you’ll wonder how you ever managed without one.
