A jigsaw is one of those tools that fills the gap between the precision of a circular saw and the versatility of a handsaw. It cuts curves, makes plunge cuts, handles intricate shapes, and works across wood, metal, plastic, and even ceramic tile with the right blade. If you don’t own one yet, this guide will help you pick the right one first time.
What a Jigsaw Does Best
- Curved cuts — the only power saw designed specifically for curves and shapes
- Plunge cuts — start a cut in the middle of a board without drilling a starter hole (though drilling is cleaner)
- Cutting sink and hob openings in worktops
- Trimming laminate flooring around obstacles
- Cutting metal, plastic, and ceramics with appropriate blades
- Detailed scrollwork in woodworking projects
Key Specs Explained
Stroke Length
The stroke length is how far the blade moves up and down. Most jigsaws have a 20–26mm stroke. A longer stroke removes material faster but can make fine control slightly harder. For general DIY, anything in the 20–23mm range is ideal.
Strokes Per Minute (SPM)
This is how fast the blade moves. Most jigsaws offer variable speed from around 500 SPM up to 3,000+ SPM. Variable speed is essential — you need low speed for metal and ceramics, and high speed for wood.
Orbital Action
Orbital action swings the blade in a slight elliptical pattern on the upstroke, making it more aggressive. Most jigsaws have 3–4 orbital settings plus a straight (zero orbital) setting:
| Orbital Setting | Cut Speed | Cut Quality | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 (off) | Slowest | Cleanest | Metal, curves, fine work |
| 1 | Moderate | Good | Hardwood, precise curves |
| 2 | Fast | Moderate | Softwood, general cutting |
| 3 | Fastest | Rougher | Rough cuts in softwood, demolition |
Blade Change System
Modern jigsaws use either T-shank or U-shank blades. Always buy a T-shank jigsaw — T-shank is the current standard, blades are available everywhere in every type, and they click in and out without tools. U-shank is an older standard with fewer blade options.
Blade Types Guide
| Blade Type | TPI (Teeth Per Inch) | Material | Cut Quality |
|---|---|---|---|
| HCS wood (fast cut) | 6–10 | Softwood, plywood | Fast, rougher edge |
| HCS wood (clean cut) | 10–14 | Hardwood, laminate | Slower, cleaner edge |
| Bi-metal | 14–24 | Metal (steel, aluminium, copper) | Slow, clean |
| Carbide grit | No teeth (grit edge) | Ceramic tile, fibreglass | Slow, precise |
| Down-cut wood | 10–14 | Laminate, veneered board | Splinter-free top surface |
| Scrolling (narrow) | 12–20 | Tight curves in thin wood | Good for intricate shapes |
Keep a variety of blades on hand — jigsaws chew through blades, especially in hardwood. The Bosch blade selector tool helps you pick the right blade for any material.
Corded vs Cordless
Corded jigsaws offer consistent power and never run out of charge — they’re still the better choice if you’re cutting thick hardwood or metal regularly. Cordless jigsaws (18V/20V) have improved enormously and are perfectly adequate for most DIY work. If you already have a battery platform, the cordless version is the more convenient choice for the vast majority of jigsaw tasks.
What to Look For
- Variable speed trigger — squeeze gently for slow, harder for fast. Essential for control
- Adjustable orbital action — at least 3 settings plus zero
- Toolless blade change — T-shank with lever release
- Dust blower — clears the cutting line so you can see your mark
- Baseplate bevel adjustment — most jigsaws tilt to 45° for bevel cuts
- Low vibration — cheaper jigsaws vibrate more, causing hand fatigue and less accurate cuts
Recommended Jigsaws by Budget
| Budget | Corded Option | Cordless Option | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Under £60 | Bosch PST 700E | — | Great beginner jigsaw, reliable |
| £60–£120 | Makita 4351FCT | DeWalt DCS334N (body only) | Excellent all-rounders |
| £120+ | Bosch GST 150 CE | Makita DJV182Z (body only) | Professional-grade |
Tips for Better Jigsaw Cuts
- Let the blade do the work — don’t force the saw forward. Pushing too hard causes the blade to bend and the cut to wander off-line
- Support the workpiece properly — unsupported material vibrates, causing rough cuts and blade breakage
- For splinter-free cuts on the top surface — apply masking tape along the cutting line, or use a down-cut blade
- For tight curves — use a narrow scrolling blade and slow down. The narrower the blade, the tighter the curve it can follow
- For straight cuts — clamp a straight edge as a guide. Jigsaws aren’t designed for freehand straight cuts — they’ll wander
- Cut with the good face down — a standard jigsaw blade cuts on the upstroke, so splintering occurs on the top face. Put the finished face downward
