Laying laminate flooring is one of the most satisfying DIY projects you can tackle. The modern click-lock systems mean no glue, no nails, and a room can be transformed in a single day. But getting a professional-looking result requires proper preparation, the right tools, and understanding a few critical rules — especially around expansion gaps and door frames.
Choosing the Right Laminate
Not all laminate is created equal. The AC (Abrasion Class) rating tells you how durable the surface layer is:
| AC Rating | Durability | Suitable For | Typical Price per m² |
|---|---|---|---|
| AC1 | Light residential | Bedrooms with light use | £5–£10 |
| AC3 | Moderate residential | Living rooms, dining rooms | £10–£18 |
| AC4 | Heavy residential / light commercial | Hallways, kitchens, busy rooms | £15–£25 |
| AC5 | Heavy commercial | Shops, offices (overkill for homes) | £20–£35 |
For most homes, AC3 or AC4 is the sweet spot. Thicker boards (8mm–12mm) feel more solid underfoot and are easier to work with than thin 6mm–7mm boards. Which? has detailed laminate flooring reviews if you want to compare specific products.
What You’ll Need
Tools
- Tape measure and pencil
- Circular saw, jigsaw, or mitre saw (for cutting planks)
- Pull bar (for the last row against a wall)
- Tapping block (to close joints without damaging tongue edges)
- Spacers (10mm — most brands include them)
- Rubber mallet
- Stanley knife or utility knife
- Spirit level (for checking subfloor)
- Undercut saw or oscillating multi-tool (for door frames)
Materials
- Laminate planks (order 10% extra for cuts and waste)
- Underlay (unless pre-attached to the laminate)
- Moisture barrier (DPM — essential on concrete subfloors)
- Scotia beading or new skirting boards
- Threshold strips for doorways
Preparation Is Everything
Acclimatise the Laminate
Leave the unopened packs in the room where they’ll be installed for at least 48 hours. Laminate expands and contracts with temperature and humidity — acclimatising reduces the risk of gapping or buckling after installation.
Check the Subfloor
The subfloor must be flat, dry, and clean. Use a 2-metre straight edge or spirit level across the floor — dips or bumps greater than 3mm over 1 metre need to be addressed. On concrete, use self-levelling compound. On timber, screw down any loose boards and sand down high spots.
For concrete subfloors, always lay a moisture barrier (polythene sheet, minimum 200 microns) with joints overlapped by 200mm and taped. Moisture coming up through concrete will destroy laminate from underneath. For timber subfloors above another heated room, a moisture barrier isn’t usually necessary — just underlay.
Undercut Door Frames
This is the step most beginners skip, and it shows. Rather than trying to cut laminate to fit around door frames (which looks terrible), undercut the bottom of each door frame and architrave so the laminate slides underneath. Use an oscillating multi-tool or a special undercut saw. Place a spare piece of laminate on the underlay as a height guide, and cut flush along its surface. The B&Q laminate installation guide has clear photos of this technique.
Step-by-Step Installation
Step 1: Lay the Underlay
Roll out the underlay across the room, butting edges together (not overlapping unless the manufacturer says otherwise). Tape the joints with underlay tape. On concrete over a moisture barrier, lay the DPM first, then the underlay on top.
Step 2: Plan Your Layout
Measure the room width and divide by the plank width. If the last row will be narrower than half a plank, reduce the width of the first row to balance both sides. A thin sliver along one wall looks terrible. Also, stagger the end joints between rows — each row should start with a plank that’s at least 300mm offset from the row above. This looks better and creates a stronger floor.
Step 3: Lay the First Row
Start along the longest straight wall. Place 10mm spacers between the planks and the wall — this gap is essential. Laminate is a floating floor; it expands and contracts with temperature and humidity. Without expansion gaps, the floor will buckle. Lay the first plank with the tongue facing the wall, click the second plank’s end joint into the first, and continue along the wall. Cut the last plank to length.
Step 4: Continue Row by Row
Start the second row with the offcut from the first row (if it’s at least 300mm long). Angle the long edge into the previous row’s groove at about 20–30 degrees and press down until it clicks. Work along the row, connecting end joints and long edges. Use a tapping block and rubber mallet to close any gaps — never hit the laminate directly.
Step 5: The Last Row
The last row almost always needs to be ripped to width. Measure the remaining gap (minus the 10mm expansion gap) at several points along the wall — walls are rarely perfectly straight. Mark and cut the planks. Use a pull bar to lever the last row into place since there’s no room for a tapping block.
Step 6: Finishing Touches
- Remove all spacers
- Fit scotia beading or refit skirting boards to cover the expansion gap around the perimeter
- Install threshold strips in doorways — these cover the expansion gap where the laminate meets different flooring
- Rehang doors — you may need to trim the bottom of doors if the new floor height is higher than the old
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- No expansion gap — the single most common mistake. The floor will buckle within weeks or months
- Forcing joints — if planks won’t click together easily, check for debris in the groove or a damaged tongue
- Not acclimatising — laying straight from the box in a cold room causes gapping
- Cutting around door frames — always undercut the frame instead; the result is incomparably better
- Forgetting the moisture barrier on concrete — you won’t see the damage for months, and by then the floor is ruined
- Running laminate through doorways without a threshold strip — different rooms need to be able to expand independently
Can You Lay Laminate in Kitchens and Bathrooms?
Kitchens — yes, provided you choose a water-resistant laminate (look for products rated for kitchen use with sealed edges). Wipe up spills promptly and never let standing water sit on the surface.
Bathrooms — generally not recommended. Even water-resistant laminate can’t handle the sustained humidity and occasional flooding that bathrooms produce. Consider luxury vinyl tile (LVT) instead — it’s fully waterproof, clicks together the same way, and looks almost identical to laminate.
