A splashback protects the wall behind your hob and worktops from grease, steam, and splashes. It also makes a huge visual difference — the right splashback can transform a tired kitchen without the cost of a full refit. Fitting one yourself saves £150–£300 in labour costs, and the job is well within reach of a competent DIYer.
Splashback Material Options
| Material | Cost per m² | DIY Difficulty | Heat Resistance | Look | Maintenance |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ceramic/porcelain tiles | £15–£60 | Moderate | Excellent | Classic, huge range | Grout needs cleaning |
| Glass | £40–£100 | Easy (if pre-cut) | Excellent | Modern, sleek, colour choice | Very easy — wipe clean |
| Acrylic | £20–£40 | Easy | Moderate (not behind gas hobs) | Budget, colourful | Easy — wipe clean |
| Stainless steel | £30–£70 | Easy (if pre-cut) | Excellent | Professional/industrial | Shows fingerprints |
| Stone/composite | £60–£150 | Difficult (heavy) | Excellent | Premium, natural | May need sealing |
| Peel-and-stick tiles | £10–£25 | Very easy | Poor | Temporary/rental | Easy but not durable |
For most DIY kitchen upgrades, tiles offer the best combination of looks, durability, and value. Glass is the premium easy option — order it pre-cut to size, stick it up, done. Acrylic is the budget option but shouldn’t be used directly behind a gas hob (heat damage risk).
How to Fit a Tiled Splashback
What You’ll Need
- Tiles (measure the area and buy 10% extra for cuts and waste)
- Tile adhesive (ready-mixed for small areas, or powdered for larger jobs)
- Tile grout
- Notched trowel (6mm notch for wall tiles)
- Tile spacers (2mm or 3mm)
- Tile cutter (manual score-and-snap for straight cuts, or a wet tile cutter for precision)
- Spirit level
- Tile trim (for exposed edges)
- Grout float
- Sponge and clean water
Step 1: Prepare the Wall
The wall must be clean, dry, and flat. Remove any old tiles, adhesive, or loose plaster. Fill any holes or dips with filler and let it dry. If the wall is newly plastered, apply PVA diluted 1:4 with water as a primer — this controls the suction and gives the adhesive a better bond.
Step 2: Plan the Layout
Dry-lay tiles along the worktop to work out your layout. Centre the pattern so you have equal-sized cut tiles at each end. Avoid tiny sliver cuts at the edges — they look terrible and are difficult to cut cleanly. Mark a level horizontal line at the bottom using a spirit level — the worktop may not be perfectly level, so don’t rely on it as your reference.
Step 3: Apply Adhesive and Lay Tiles
- Spread adhesive on the wall using the flat edge of your notched trowel, then comb through with the notched edge to create even ridges
- Press the first tile into position, twisting slightly to ensure good contact
- Insert spacers and continue across the row
- Check level every 3–4 tiles — once adhesive sets, you can’t adjust
- Cut edge tiles as needed using a manual tile cutter for straight cuts
- Allow adhesive to set for 24 hours before grouting
Step 4: Grout
- Mix grout to a thick paste consistency (for ready-mixed, use straight from the tub)
- Apply with a grout float, pressing diagonally across the tile joints to fill them completely
- Work in sections — don’t grout more than you can clean in 15–20 minutes
- After 10–15 minutes, wipe the surface with a damp sponge to remove excess grout. Rinse the sponge frequently
- Once dry, polish off the haze with a dry cloth
Step 5: Seal the Edges
Apply a thin bead of kitchen silicone sealant where the tiles meet the worktop. This waterproof seal prevents moisture getting behind the tiles. Use the masking tape method for clean lines — tape both sides of the joint, apply silicone, smooth with a wet finger, then remove tape immediately. See our silicone sealant guide for the full technique.
How to Fit a Glass Splashback
Glass splashbacks are simpler but require precise measurement:
- Measure precisely — glass cannot be trimmed on site. Measure the width and height at multiple points (walls aren’t always straight). Deduct 2–3mm from each dimension for clearance
- Order to size — most suppliers offer made-to-measure glass with cut-outs for sockets if needed. Expect 1–2 weeks lead time
- Prepare the wall — it must be flat and painted in the colour you want (the wall shows through the glass if it’s clear or lightly tinted)
- Apply adhesive — use a mirror adhesive or specific glass splashback adhesive. Apply in vertical strips about 75mm apart
- Position and press — get help for this. Glass splashbacks are heavy and slippery. Press firmly across the entire surface
- Seal the edges — apply clear silicone around all edges
The B&Q glass splashback fitting guide covers the adhesive options in detail.
Key Considerations
- Behind gas hobs: Use glass, tiles, stainless steel, or stone only — not acrylic. Check the splashback manufacturer’s heat rating
- Electrical sockets: You’ll likely need to extend socket boxes so they sit flush with the new splashback surface. Turn off the power at the consumer unit before any electrical work
- Building regulations: No specific building regs apply to splashbacks in most cases, but electrical work near sinks may require Part P compliance — check if you’re moving or adding sockets
