Fitting skirting boards is one of those jobs that looks simple but reveals its challenges the moment you reach the first corner. Getting clean, tight-fitting mitres on internal and external corners requires the right technique and — crucially — the right saw. Done well, new skirting transforms a room. Done badly, the gaps at every corner scream ‘DIY bodge.’
Choosing Skirting Board Profile and Height
Skirting boards come in various profiles (shapes) and heights:
| Profile | Style | Best For |
|---|---|---|
| Square/round edge | Contemporary | Modern homes, clean lines |
| Torus | Traditional | Period properties, classic rooms |
| Ogee | Ornate traditional | Victorian/Edwardian properties |
| Chamfered | Simple classic | Versatile — suits most styles |
| Bullnose | Minimal | Ultra-modern, minimal interiors |
Height is a design choice — 95mm is standard builder-grade, 120–145mm looks more substantial and is common in period properties, and 170mm+ makes a statement. Match the style to your room — ornate skirting in a modern apartment looks as wrong as plain skirting in a Georgian townhouse. Wickes’ skirting board range shows the main profiles available.
Essential Tools
- Mitre saw — either a manual mitre box (budget) or a power mitre saw (recommended). Accurate mitres are the single most important factor. See our mitre saw guide
- Coping saw (for internal corners — see below)
- Tape measure and pencil
- Spirit level
- Adhesive (Sticks Like or similar grab adhesive) and/or masonry nails
- Nail punch (to set nail heads below the surface)
- Caulk and caulk gun (for filling gaps along the top edge)
- Filler (for filling nail holes and mitre gaps)
- Fine sandpaper (120 grit)
Internal Corners: The Coping Method
This is the technique that separates professional results from amateur. On internal corners, don’t mitre both pieces at 45°. Instead, butt one piece squarely into the corner and cope the second piece to fit over it:
- Cut the first piece square (90°) and push it into the corner
- For the second piece, cut a 45° internal mitre on the end that meets the corner. This exposes the profile shape on the cut face
- Using a coping saw, carefully cut along the profile line, removing the waste material at a slight back-angle (undercut). Follow the contour of the skirting profile precisely
- The coped end should now fit snugly over the first piece like a jigsaw piece, regardless of whether the wall corner is a perfect 90° (hint: it rarely is)
Coping takes practice but produces far superior results to mitring internal corners, because it accommodates out-of-square walls. Mitred internal corners always open up as the wood dries and shrinks. Coped joints don’t.
External Corners: Mitres
External corners (where the wall projects outward) are mitred at 45° on both pieces:
- Measure the wall length to the corner point
- Cut the first piece at 45° (opening outward)
- Cut the second piece at 45° in the opposite direction
- Dry-fit both pieces on the corner. They should meet tightly with no gap at the front face
- Apply adhesive and pin both pieces in place. Apply a drop of wood glue to the mitre joint itself for a permanent bond
If the corner isn’t a perfect 90° (test with a square), adjust the mitre angle slightly. A mitre saw with fine angle adjustment is invaluable here.
Fixing Methods
Adhesive Only (Plasterboard Walls)
On plasterboard, apply a grab adhesive (Sticks Like, No More Nails, or similar) in a zigzag pattern along the back of the skirting. Press firmly against the wall and hold for 30 seconds. Use masking tape to hold the skirting in place while the adhesive sets (typically 2–4 hours). This method avoids the risk of splitting plasterboard or hitting cables behind the wall.
Nails (Masonry Walls)
On solid brick or block walls, use masonry nails or lost-head nails. Drill pilot holes through the skirting at stud positions (or every 500mm) and nail in. Use a nail punch to set the heads 1–2mm below the surface, then fill with wood filler.
Combination (Belt and Braces)
For the most secure fixing, use both adhesive and nails or screws. The adhesive holds the skirting flat against the wall; the mechanical fixing prevents it from pulling away as the adhesive cures.
Step-by-Step Process
- Remove old skirting — use a wide chisel or pry bar. Score the paint/caulk line with a knife first to avoid tearing plaster
- Prepare walls — scrape off any old adhesive lumps. Fill and sand any holes or damage
- Plan your cuts — start with the longest wall. Work around the room, coping into each internal corner and mitring external corners
- Dry-fit before fixing — always check the fit before applying adhesive. It’s much easier to adjust a dry piece than to pull a glued one off the wall
- Fix in place — adhesive, nails, or both
- Fill gaps — use caulk along the top edge (where the skirting meets the wall). Use wood filler for nail holes and any small mitre gaps
- Sand and paint — lightly sand any filler, prime any bare wood, and apply two coats of your chosen paint. Satinwood or eggshell finishes are standard for skirting
Common Mistakes
- Mitring internal corners instead of coping — the joints will open up. Always cope internals
- Not accounting for out-of-square walls — measure every corner with a square and adjust angles accordingly
- Cutting all pieces to the same length — measure each wall individually. Room dimensions vary
- Skipping the caulk line — a thin line of caulk along the top edge covers the gap between skirting and wall, giving a professional finish
- Using blunt saw blades — a dull blade tears the wood rather than cutting it cleanly, producing ragged mitres
