A router is arguably the most versatile power tool in woodworking — it shapes edges, cuts grooves, makes joints, creates decorative profiles, and does a dozen other jobs. But as a beginner, you’re immediately faced with a choice: do you use it handheld, or mount it in a router table? The answer depends on what you’re making and how often you use it.
How Each Setup Works
Handheld Router
You hold the router and guide it across or along the workpiece. The workpiece stays still (clamped to a bench), and you move the tool. This gives you maximum flexibility — you can route edges on large panels, cut mortises, make template-guided shapes, and work on pieces too large to bring to a table.
Router Table
The router mounts upside down under a flat table, with the bit protruding through a hole. You push the workpiece past the spinning bit, guided by a fence. This gives you more control on small and narrow pieces, better consistency on repeated cuts, and free hands to manage the wood.
Comparison
| Factor | Handheld Router | Router Table |
|---|---|---|
| Best for | Large workpieces, template work, edge profiling, mortises | Small/narrow pieces, repeated profiles, joinery, mouldings |
| Safety | Good (you control the tool) | Better for small pieces (hands away from bit) |
| Precision | Good with guides/templates | Excellent with fence and featherboards |
| Repeatability | Requires jigs for repeat cuts | Excellent — set fence once, run all pieces |
| Cost | Router only: £60–£200 | Router + table: £100–£400+ |
| Space | Minimal (tool + workpiece) | Moderate (table footprint) |
| Learning curve | Moderate (feed direction critical) | Moderate (still need to understand feed direction) |
Which Should a Beginner Get First?
Start with a handheld router. It’s more versatile as a standalone tool, cheaper to get started, and teaches you the fundamentals of routing (feed direction, depth of cut, bit selection) that transfer directly to table routing later. Most beginner projects — shelving, picture frames, edge profiling, cutting dadoes — are easier with a handheld router.
Add a router table later when you find yourself doing repetitive work (running moulding profiles on multiple pieces, cutting lots of rabbets, making tongue-and-groove joints) or working with small, narrow pieces that feel unsafe to hold against a handheld router. The Axminster router range has options for every budget.
Choosing Your First Router
Fixed Base vs Plunge Router
- Fixed base — the bit depth is set before you start. Simpler, lighter, easier for edge work. Less versatile
- Plunge router — the bit plunges into the work from above. Essential for mortises, stopped grooves, and template work. More versatile but slightly more complex to set up
For a first router, a plunge router is the better choice — it does everything a fixed base does, plus plunge cuts. Many mid-range routers come as a combo kit with both bases, which gives you the best of both worlds.
Power
- ¼-inch collet, 700–1,000W — compact, lightweight. Good for edge work, small bits, and light duty. Fits in a small router table
- ½-inch collet, 1,200–2,100W — full-size. Handles large bits, deep cuts, and heavy routing. Better in a router table for serious work
A ½-inch router with a ¼-inch collet adaptor gives you access to both bit sizes. For a beginner, a mid-range 1,200–1,400W plunge router offers the best versatility. Screwfix’s router range includes good options from Makita, DeWalt, and Bosch.
Router Table Options
When you’re ready for a table, you have three choices:
- Build your own — an MDF top with a router plate insert, a fence, and dust extraction. Cheap (£20–£50 in materials) but requires accurate workmanship
- Benchtop router table — compact, affordable (£50–£120), sits on your workbench. Perfect for home workshops
- Floor-standing router table — larger working surface, integrated fence, dedicated stand. £200–£500+. For serious woodworkers
Essential Router Safety
- Feed direction — handheld: move the router from left to right (anti-clockwise around the workpiece). Table: feed the workpiece from right to left. Wrong direction causes the router to climb, grabbing the workpiece violently
- Take multiple passes — never try to remove more than 3mm depth in a single pass. Multiple shallow passes are safer, produce cleaner cuts, and are easier on the motor
- Wear hearing and eye protection — routers are among the loudest power tools in the workshop
- Let the bit reach full speed before contacting the wood — this prevents grab and gives a cleaner cut
- Never adjust depth with the router plugged in
The Bottom Line
Start handheld, learn the fundamentals, and add a table when your projects demand it. A good plunge router (£80–£150) is one of the best investments you can make in your workshop. A router table is a natural progression once you’re comfortable with the tool — but it’s a luxury, not a necessity, for beginners.
